Travelling New Zealand’s South Island 6 – Arthur’s Pass to Lake Pukaki – by Rob Shackleford
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Arthurs Pass
After our visits to the wonderful New Zealand glaciers we headed north, through Hokitika, after which we turned to head east to pass through Kumara and Arthur’s Pass. Arthur’s Pass is another of the fabulously scenic highways and national parks that New Zealand does so well.
As we explored, we looked for kea, the cheeky, rubber-chewing bird that makes hiking in the New Zealand Alps such an experience. Alas, we were told that kea have been declining in numbers, though no reason was given. We have used another image, for we weren’t fortunate in finding one.
We stayed at the accommodation pictured and it was great. As the hulking mountains loomed with their dusting of snow, the stillness could be cut with a knife. Because of Deb’s injured knee, we didn’t get into some of the more energetic hikes, but we did get to Castle Hill.
Castle Hill
As you drive through Arthur’s Pass, you soon leave the Alps behind and head to the flatter land that will eventually become the Canterbury Plains. But before that, best stop at Castle Hill on the right as the road levels out.
It feels like a hidden place, though some rock climbers and boulderers were setting up their gear as we arrived. It has the feeling of Girraween in Australia, a place where massive, sculpted boulders perch precariously, where a careless poke might send them tumbling. To our delight there was snow and ice around the feature, so our hike there was a lot of fun. At one place there was so much ice on the ground that we had to scoot along on our bottoms.
Lake Tekapo and Lake Pukaki
After driving through the wide-open spaces of the Canterbury Plains, where sheep rule, we stayed the night at Lake Tekapo, described by some as the most beautiful place to gave at the endless vault of the night sky.
While we have been fortunate to have amazing weather, alas Lake Tekapo was not as brilliant as other skies we have seen because of a few persistent light clouds. But the experience of wandering the icy cold lake shores and staring at the skies was certainly worth the effort. Day or night, the breath-taking vistas offered by the lakes of Tekapo and Pukaki are worth travelling the world to see, especially for a couple of Australian residents who never see snow.
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Rob and Deb live at Burleigh Heads, on Australia’s Gold Coast.
Rob is an author of Traveller Inceptio, published by Austin Macauley Publishers.
Deb is a yoga teacher and administrator par excellence.
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